The word pleat comes from the Latin word pli which means ‘fold’. Pleated fabric is a sheet of material that is folded with ‘valleys’ and ‘mountains’ to create either a flat pleated surface, or three-dimension form, depending on the type of pleat used. They are used to create volume, surface interest and texture to textiles and come in a variety of styles and sizes.
Fabric can be purchased pre-pleated, but often garments will have segments of the fabric pleated after hems and some seams are stitched to allow to fabric to uniformly fold back into position. Most fabrics can be pleated, but for the pleats to stay permanently in place (meaning that you can hand wash in cool water), fabric composition of 70% polyester and above, or wool works the best. Once these fabric fibres are folded and heated the memory of the fold is enduring. Other natural fibres can also be pleated, but overtime, the pleats may soften and loose their sharpness.
Specialty fabric pleaters use three different methods to pleat fabric-
- Hand pleating with cardboard mould
- Machine pleating (heated machine plates)
- Hand pleating with cord, clamps (shibori)
The method of hand pleating can produce an array of intricate patterns, and one of the most recognisable pleated configurations is the Sunray. The Sunray pleat radiates from the centre with the pleat folds deepening on the outer edge. To create hand pleated fabric, two cardboard moulds that have been crafted by hand (top and bottom mould) are stretched flat. Next the plane of fabric is laid between the top and bottom mould layers. The mould is then ‘pleated’ with the fabric sandwiched inside and steamed at high temperatures to change the structure of the fibre. Once cooled, the fabric is removed. In Australia we are lucky to have two amazing pleaters – NSW Rado Pleating and Victoria Specialty Pleaters. Both companies have a long history of servicing the fashion industry.
https://www.instagram.com/radopleating/
https://specialtypleaters.com/
Image: The authors' own two full-circle skirt Tartan Sunray hand pleated from 2003 (Rado Pleating). Still worn today.
This video produced by the Business of Fashion and Lognon Pleaters in France will provide more insights into the magical world of pleating.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc