Glossary+terminology

Basting: Temporary stitches sewn into a garment to help hold fabric in place until the area is sewn by machine. Basting stitches are removed after machine sewing.

Bias grain: Bias grain or True grain is the 45 degree angle of the fabric grain. This fabric grain-line is slightly stretchy or has 'give'. This grain is used to cut bias binding so it forms around curved areas neatly. For example necklines and armholes.

Block fusing verses Piece fusing: Block fusing and piece fusing are terms that are used to explain how to fuse fabric to stabilise it before sewing. Piece fusing involves attaching interlining to individual garment pieces before sewing them together. Block fusing applies interlining to larger sections of fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces, streamlining the process. (see interlining below)

Centre back: This is the central line of the back of the garment. Pattern markings can also refer to it as CB.

Centre front: This is the central line of the front of the garment. Pattern markings can also refer to it as CF.

Collar: This is a section of the garment that is used on a neckline of a shirt, top, dress, jacket or coat to frame the face. They can be wide or narrow and depending of the garment design, they may have a stand that is used to add height to the collar.

Cross-grain: This is the fabric grain-line that is selvedge to selvedge. Some textiles and fabrics use one or both of the selvedge edges of the fabric for boarder designs that runs the continuous length of the cloth. This fabric boarder can then be used on the bottom of a skirt hem or trouser legs and will require the fabric to be cut cross-grain.

Ease (garment and wearing): When we talk about ease we are often referring to the space between the garment and the body. Some garment silhouettes afford design/garment ease as part of the design such as the Trapeze, Cocoon or voluminous over sized garment shapes. Wearing ease is the level of comfort that is designed into the garment so you are able to ergonomically move is a garment. Stretch garments similar to swimwear, active and sportswear will have minus ease. This is because the fabric is designed to stretch over our body.

Fabric shrinkage: Today when we purchase fabric, mostly they are pre-shrunk and ready to use. But it is still good to test, especially when using natural fibres if in doubt. To test the shrinkage of fabric, cut a section of fabric 15 x 15cm with the selvedge on one side of the square. Mark using a permanent marker a 10 x 10cm square inside the fabric. Wash how the supplier has suggested or how you usually wash your garments. Allow to dry. Press lightly and remeasure the 10 x 10cm square to calculate if the fabric has shrunk. If there is shrinkage, pre-wash your fabric before laying up your pattern and cutting your garment.

French seams: Are a favorite, but they do require planning. The look of a French seam is a neat concealed raw edge that is encased in the seam. To sew a French seam you need to start with the wrong sides of the fabric together. If your seam allowance value is 1.2cm (12mm), stitch the first row of stitching at 5mm. Next press the narrow seam flat open and fold back onto itself for the final row of stitching which will be at 7mm. Press the seam to one side. This type of seam works well with fine, soft and sheet fabrics, but best avoided for bulky fabrics.

Graded seam allowances: refers to the practice of trimming layers of fabric at different widths in a sewn seam. This technique is commonly used to reduce bulk and create a smoother, more even finish in garments. It involves cutting the seam allowances at various widths, with narrower allowances in areas that require less fabric bulk, such as curves, and wider allowances in areas that need more support. Graded seam allowances contribute to a neater and more professional appearance in the finished garment. In the image from the Juniper Coat below, the neckline seam allowance is trimmed at 2 different widths. This will help create a more gradated seam edge once turned through to the right side.

Grain-line: Woven fabrics have a warp (length-wise grain) and a weft (cross-wise grain). Most patterns will suggest using the warp or straight-grain when making your garment. However depending on the style and patterning of your fabric, on occasions your fabric may need to be cut cross-grain (see above). The textiles might have a boarder print or pattern that can be utilised, or the width of the pattern might require more fabric (such as gathering) without seams. Some fabrics also have a very different handle on straight-grain compared to cross-grain, so it is good to test to see how the fabric behaves before cutting.

Hong Kong/Bound seam finish: This is a seam that uses bias binding to finish the seam edge. This type of seam is good for garments such as jackets that do not have a lining, but require an elevated finish on the inside of the garment.

Interfacing or interlining: There is a wide variety of fusible interlinings that range from non-woven, knit or woven and depending on the weight of your fabric, selecting one that is appropriate is essential. This is an additional material used to support ares of a garment. It can be used to offer reinforcement such down a button placket or add body and stablise fabric such as in areas like collars and cuffs. It adds structure, stability, and support, enhancing the fabric's drape and improving the overall quality and durability of the garment.

Notch: A small snip in fabric at an indicated area of the garment used to match and balance areas before sewing. For example a notch at the CF may indicate where the button and buttonhole placement might be.

Pressing: Is required throughout the garment making process to help flatten seams and provide a professional finish to the garment. Pressing can use heat or  heat and steam.

Pressing cloth: This is a small cloth used to protect fabric from scorching when pressing. The pressing cloth should be made of a natural fibre in linen or cotton is is placed between the area you are pressing and the base of the iron.

Right side (RS). This is the right or face side of the fabrics/garment. Often this will will be indicated on sewing patterns that are asymmetrical and require the pattern and fabric to be cut a specified direction.

Seam allowance value (SAV): Abbreviated to SAV, seam allowance values can be the same on all seam of a pattern, or graded using a variety of seam widths (industry standard). Depending on the sewing pattern you are construction these may alter and it is always good to check that patterns also have these added. In the fashion industry SAV's are graded, which means that the garment pattern will have multiple sizes of seam allowances to make the sewing construction process quicker to save time on trimming and clipping. Most domestic or commercial patterns have the same seam allowance value used on all seams. This is to prevent mistakes and also offers a little bit of extra fabric for fit alterations. Some patterns will require the SAV to be trimmed or cut as you are sewing, which then allows the fabric to sit better on the body.

Tailors chalk and fabric markers: To mark special details on fabric tailors chalk is used. This comes in a a range of colours and is easily removed once you have finished sewing. Fabric markers are today available in fade-away or wash-away pens. For stretchy and shiny fabrics a good trick in the fashion industry is using thin dry pieces of soap. These mark clean lines that seam away.

Tailors wax: This is a special wax that is used to run thread through before hand-stitching. The wax adds a coating to the thread helping to prevent it tangling and knotting.

Toile: A toile is a basic garment that is made from calico or fabric that is similar to what you are using to test the fit, and proportion of a garment. Alterations can be made to the toile that are then transferred to the pattern to personalise the fit of the garment.

Wrong side (WS): This is the wrong side of the fabric and usually indicates the internal or inside of the garment.